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It's getting harder and harder to justify staying in the Mac ecosystem given the widening price differential between Mac laptops and their Windows counterparts. For example, a system is on sale at Costco starting December 27 for $899.99. While it lacks Thunderbolt 3, it has multiple ports, including a card reader and HDMI, comes with a 10th-generation Intel i7 processor, 12 GB of RAM, a 2GB GeForce graphics card, a 14" touchscreen, and a 1 TB SSD. A neat touch is a sliding shutter to cover the web cam. It makes stiff competition for the new MacBook Air which comes with 8 GB of RAM and a paltry 128GB SSD.
 


Ric Ford

MacInTouch
For example, a system is on sale at Costco starting December 27 for $899.99. While it lacks Thunderbolt 3, it has multiple ports, including a card reader and HDMI, comes with a 10th-generation Intel i7 processor, 12 GB of RAM, a 2GB GeForce graphics card, a 14" touchscreen, and a 1 TB SSD. A neat touch is a sliding shutter to cover the web cam.
Do you have a link for the system? I'm guessing that it's one of the Lenovos.

Just one thing to consider: I found that HDMI output on a MacBook Pro at 30 Hz was really unpleasant, so I'd want to be sure that any computer I bought could drive a 4K display at 60 Hz minimum via HDMI or DisplayPort, which I prefer. I'd also check to see if RAM and storage (M.2 would be mandatory for me) are upgradable. Lastly, I think touch screens are generally glossy, rather than matte, which might also be a consideration, and some laptop screens (e.g. 4K) take more power than others.

This Dell Inspiron looks pretty good, complete with Thunderbolt 3, for the same price. I really liked a similar one a friend got a couple of years ago, which was very easy to access and upgrade internally.
Costco said:

The XPS 15 looks good, too, and here's one with a sweet 4K OLED screen for a lot less than a locked-shut MacBook Pro with ordinary screen:
Costco said:
Dell XPS 15 Laptop - 9th Gen Intel Core i7-9750H - GeForce GTX 1650 - 4K UHD OLED - $1749.99
  • 9th Gen Intel® Core™ i7-9750H 6-Core Processor 2.6GHz
  • 16GB DDR4 2666MHz RAM
  • 512GB PCIe NVMe M.2 Solid State Drive
  • 15.6" InfinityEdge Anti-Reflective 4K UHD OLED (3840 x 2160) Display
  • 4GB NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1650 Graphics
  • Backlit Keyboard [non-butterfly!]
  • Fingerprint Reader
  • 1x Thunderbolt 3.0
  • 2x USB 3.0
  • 1x HDMI Out 2.0
  • 1x Headset Jack
  • 1x Media Card Reader
  • 6-Cell 97WHr Battery
 


This Dell Inspiron looks pretty good, complete with Thunderbolt 3, for the same price (assuming its SSD and RAM be upgraded). I really liked a similar one a friend got a couple of years ago, which was very easy to access and upgrade internally.
One of the nice things about Dell is that they publish pretty detailed manuals for most of their equipment. I'm not 100% certain it's the same machine, but some quick googling suggests the system you linked is the Inspiron 7590. Both RAM and SSD are upgradeable.
 


It's getting harder and harder to justify staying in the Mac ecosystem given the widening price differential between Mac laptops and their Windows counterparts. For example, a system is on sale at Costco starting December 27 for $899.99. While it lacks Thunderbolt 3, it has multiple ports, including a card reader and HDMI, comes with a 10th-generation Intel i7 processor, 12 GB of RAM, a 2GB GeForce graphics card, a 14" touchscreen, and a 1 TB SSD. A neat touch is a sliding shutter to cover the web cam. It makes stiff competition for the new MacBook Air which comes with 8 GB of RAM and a paltry 128GB SSD.
Oops I forgot to post the link:

Lenovo IdeaPad S540 14" Touchscreen Laptop, 10th Gen Intel Core i7-10510U, GeForce MX250, 1080p

The price is listed as $1099, but it drops to $899 on December 27.
 


I need a new battery for my Early-2013 MacBook Pro Retina 15" (MacBookPro10,1 A1398). The original Apple battery lasted for years. A NewerTech battery didn't last nearly as long, it expanded and disabled the trackpad. NewerTech's quality control was abysmal. The circuit board was put together so sloppily, I had to trim it and then force it into position.

Any recommendations based on experience for good inexpensive batteries? I see some on Amazon for as low as $39 USD, less than 1/2 the $90 USD of a NewerTech.
 


Any recommendations based on experience for good inexpensive batteries? I see some on Amazon for as low as $39 USD, less than 1/2 the $90 USD of a NewerTech.
My advice: be careful. Last year I replaced the battery in my old MacBook Pro, and it took three attempts to get a battery whose actual mAh capacity matched the advertised rating. The first two batteries both held less than the used Apple battery I was replacing! Fortunately, both vendors accepted a return without (much) hassle.

The one I finally kept was this one. Note that I can't guarantee that this battery fits your specific model of MacBook Pro. Please check the specs before ordering.
 


I need a new battery for my Early-2013 MacBook Pro Retina 15" (MacBookPro10,1 A1398)...
... Any recommendations based on experience for good inexpensive batteries? I see some on Amazon for as low as $39 USD, less than 1/2 the $90 USD of a NewerTech.
You might want to take a look at my previous post #24185 about replacing the batteries in my "late-2013" MacBook Pro Retina 13" model. (Not the same as yours, but I had an excellent experience with the iFixit kit. And it's still performing extremely well.)
 


I recently purchased this battery for my early 2011 MacBook Pro:
Amazon said:
Unlike my last replacement battery purchase, and after cycling it 3-5 times as instructed by the vendor, Coconut Battery says this battery exceeds its rated, as well as Apple Factory, charge capacity for this laptop. The listing claims to have new generation charging circuitry internal, so we’ll see how that does. But I can start it running YouTube movies, without the A/C adapter, and my (SSD equipped) MacBook runs in the vicinity of 6-7 hours on maximum brightness before it shuts down due to low battery. It also appears to run a little cooler as well, which may or may not be coincidental with the installation (I also cleaned the fans and air path).

The manufacturer provided the Philips and triwing screwdrivers in the kit, as well as a keyboard cover and replacement feet for the laptop (which I needed, due to wear). The kit was only missing the “crowbar”, also known as “spudger”, to remove the old battery terminals (I had one in my tool set anyway from other upgrades). So I’m happy to give it and the manufacturer, SNSYIY, a recommendation at this time.

After two repairs (for the AMD graphics chip), an SSD upgrade, and a WiFi adapter upgrade, this old MacBook is still a speedy enough workhorse that just won’t quit and give me a reason to buy a newest one.
 


My advice: be careful. Last year I replaced the battery in my old MacBook Pro, and it took three attempts to get a battery whose actual mAh capacity matched the advertised rating. The first two batteries both held less than the used Apple battery I was replacing! Fortunately, both vendors accepted a return without (much) hassle.
The one I finally kept was this one. Note that I can't guarantee that this battery fits your specific model of MacBook Pro. Please check the specs before ordering.
I just got a replacement out-of-warranty MacBook Pro battery installed by Apple in two days for $129. Prices go up depending on the model, as specified here:
Apple said:
But I have to say this is a no-brainer for me, if you can get that quick turnaround and deal with being away from your device for a bit - a rare case of Apple charging reasonable prices in my opinion.

Last year i did several replacements myself without incident. Even though they were highly rated names you trust, 2 of 3 of them swelled and failed within a year.
 


I need a new battery for my Early-2013 MacBook Pro Retina 15" (MacBookPro10,1 A1398).
I should have added that I never run this MacBook on battery. The only reason I want a battery is that the new smaller MagSafe connector can be dislodged from its socket far too easily, and without a battery, the Mac shuts down instantly.

I only use this MacBook at a client location once or twice a month to run Apple Remote Desktop and Microsoft Remote Desktop, so I can update Macs and PCs. I'll be shutting down the MacBook and removing the power adapter during the time it's not in use. With light usage, perhaps I can get by with a cheap battery.

I wonder if time is a major factor for lightly used cheap batteries swelling.
 


Earlier this month I ordered a 2019 MacBook Pro 16", very well spec'd. It arrived 5 days ago. Once configured, I plugged it into my external LG 5K display. All seemed well at first, but then as I used it and installed more software, it frequently (not always) changed the Brightness slider in the Display preference pane to 100%! My eyeballs were shocked :) This would happen with either the built-in display, the external LG 5K, or both at the same time.
I have a MacBook Pro 16” with a Thunderbolt LG 34wk95 under Catalina. No issues with display brightness. However, the MacBook Pro 16” will crash after a long sleep, if I do not close the MacBook before sleep. If I let the MacBook sleep for over 30 minutes, I will need to restart to wake it up. Same thing happens when connected with a Thunderbolt dock and a Thunderbolt Display.

Catalina is very buggy with Thunderbolt.
 


.... If I let the MacBook sleep for over 30 minutes, I will need to restart to wake it up. Same thing happens when connected with a Thunderbolt dock and a Thunderbolt Display.
Catalina is very buggy with Thunderbolt.
As part of moving to a new driver model for the kernel, Apple redid the USB drivers for 10.15 (Catalina). There is a decent chance it is a USB sleep/wake/'bus controller hot-plug' issue with immature code/stability, and Thunderbolt isn't really a root cause.
 


I have a MacBook Pro 10,1 (Retina mid-2012) running macOS 10.15.3, and occasionally the keyboard fails – I see the bluetooth icon is crossed out, and the only remedy is to reboot. I can log into the MacBook Pro, and it seems to be running. (I believe it also happened in macOS 10.14.) Any ideas?
 


I have a MacBook Pro 10,1 (Retina mid-2012) running macOS 10.15.3, and occasionally the keyboard fails – I see the bluetooth icon is crossed out, and the only remedy is to reboot. I can log into the MacBook Pro, and it seems to be running. (I believe it also happened in macOS 10.14.) Any ideas?
It may not be exactly the same thing, but a similar thing would happen occasionally while booting my old mid 2010 13" MacBook Pro 7,1. Booting would take a little longer than usual, and, since I had it set to boot in verbose mode, I could see that it wasn't recognizing the built-in keyboard and was trying to detect a (non-existent) bluetooth keyboard. Eventually it would time-out and the boot processes would complete. If I closed the cover to put it to sleep, all would be fine upon waking.

The problem disappeared after I replaced the battery. I suspect the old battery may have been expanding and causing intermittent problems with a keyboard connection somewhere. It might be worth opening up the case and making sure all of the keyboard connections are in order and that the battery is not expanding.
 


It may not be exactly the same thing, but a similar thing would happen occasionally while booting my old mid 2010 13" MacBook Pro 7,1. Booting would take a little longer than usual, and, since I had it set to boot in verbose mode, I could see that it wasn't recognizing the built-in keyboard and was trying to detect a (non-existent) bluetooth keyboard. Eventually it would time-out and the boot processes would complete. If I closed the cover to put it to sleep, all would be fine upon waking.

The problem disappeared after I replaced the battery. I suspect the old battery may have been expanding and causing intermittent problems with a keyboard connection somewhere. It might be worth opening up the case and making sure all of the keyboard connections are in order and that the battery is not expanding.
Quite often the trackpad cable is failing. It is the interconnection from keyboard-trackpad-logicboard.
 


As part of moving to a new driver model for the kernel, Apple redid the USB drivers for 10.15 (Catalina). There is a decent chance it is a USB sleep/wake/'bus controller hot-plug' issue with immature code/stability, and Thunderbolt isn't really a root cause.
Looks like the latest Catalina update has reduced the problem. My problem occurred with Thunderbolt devices when there were no USB devices connected to the Mac.
 


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